And . . things didn’t go quite as expected.  Well, I suppose it depends on who was expecting what!  I thought we were going to get a friend with a tractor or skid mover or something to come over and do it.  But . . no!  Vince had it all figured out.  He and Jerry and Jerry’s son were going to move it.  Chad was working or he would have been in this mix too.  Vince had a plan!

Vince had already wrapped plastic around the wooden beams at the bottom of the legs.  They would roll out this plastic.

They would squirt dishwashing liquid on it so it would be slippery.  I think the look on Jerry’s face indicates he has his doubts about this plan.

Hey . . progress.  It’s moved a bit!

Ahh!  We’re out of the building . . almost.  Piece o’ cake, huh?

Great job!  Now we have to turn it and take it a bit towards the house.  Spread out more plastic.  One set of legs is off the plastic but that’s not a problem these three can’t solve.

Hmmm!  I’m not the engineer in this operation but I don’t think this was part of the plan!  Anthony hurt his hand; Jerry is somewhere with his hand bleeding.  Vince is crying!   Anthony pinched his hand, Jerry had some deep splinters but both will recover.  Thankfully, they weren’t hurt seriously!  The coop can be fixed . . humans can’t be fixed nearly so easily!

Vince wasn’t really crying but I’m betting some four letter words went through his head.  I didn’t hear them but I don’t think he would say them around Brenda, Jerry and Anthony but if ever there was a time when it was ok to say bad words, this just might have been that time!

Pretty sad, huh?

Nothing these three can’t solve.  Wrap some straps around the legs and pull it back up with the pickup.  That didn’t work though . . but it did rip the legs almost off the building.

They wrapped the straps around the whole coop and pulled it back into position.  This is the point where I said . . Hey Brenda!  Want to go in the house and have some iced tea?  And, she said yes!  And, we left the guys to get the rest done without our advice and without further photographs!

When Brenda got brave enough to look out the window, she said “It’s where it’s supposed to be!”  So, we went out and took the guys some iced tea.  Notice that darned trash can . . always in my pictures!

The front corner has some damage (see the grass hanging out) but Vince can fix it and the legs need to be re-done.  They have them braced so they could finish moving it but it’s not a permanent fix yet.  I doubt the coop ever gets moved from this position.  For sure it won’t unless we get a tractor or something to move it.

Maybe this weekend we can get the chickens moved.  I can’t wait to see their faces when they see their new home!

1. The border posts are not meant for everyone.  If you close your eyes and sew long, unmeasured strips to your quilts and that works, why change anything?  I say . . if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it!  If what you’re doing works for you, then don’t even think about trying a different method.  There are many ways to do anything and what I’m writing is certainly not meant to be the only way or the right way to add borders.  It’s what works for me and that’s what others have asked me to share.  By the way, I’ve quilted Vicky’s tops and whatever she does, it works!  She doesn’t need to change anything!  Her quilts are always flat and square.  In fact, I sometimes look at her quilts and wish mine were so flat and square.

Please don’t anyone think you need to change the way you’re doing borders because of what I write.  If you aren’t happy with the way your borders are turning out and you want to try what I’m suggesting, then try it.  It might work for you . . it might not!

2. Whether EQ runs on a MAC without causing problems — CJ at Tinkle Times runs it on hers and I’d be surprised if she would do it if it caused problems at all.  If you’re designing your own quilts and you’re not using EQ or any other software and you’re happy with your results . . don’t change anything!

3.  For those not sewing an accurate 1/4″ seam, pieced sashings aren’t going to work either.  It’s just a whole lot easier to figure out once and for all how to get a 1/4″ seam and go with that.  I guess I’m kinda anal about some things but I cannot understand why a quilter wouldn’t take the time and effort to figure out how to make a good 1/4″ seam.   Most all patterns are written fro 1/4″ seams; if putting together several sections, especially if there are points .. they’re not going to match if the seams aren’t 1/4″.

4.  If you’re wanting to add a pieced border, you absolutely have to be sure that when you get to the point of being ready to sew on that pieced border,  your top has to measure a multiple of the size of your blocks.  If I am adding a 4″ block in a pieced border, the last border added before adding that pieced border has to be a multiple of 4.

I’ll say it again — these are my suggestions; these border posts are what works for me.  You do not have to do borders my way!  You do not have to use EQ!  You do not have to make 1/4″ seams . . you can do anything that makes you happy!  But, I’ve been asked over and over about my borders and that’s simply what I’m sharing . . borders the way I do them!

The next statement I make will cause many of you to remove my blog from your blog reader, never to return to my blog again but, here it is:

I do not measure before adding borders!  I just don’t do it!

I use Electric Quilt.  Let’s just do a shameless plug here and get this part out of the way.  If you don’t have EQ, you can order it from me here.  Thanks!  If you’re not an EQ user, well . . why not?

Back to measuring, there are two reasons I do not measure (well, three if you count that I just don’t like that part!):

1. If I’m measuring a quilt, depending on the size, I can come up with a very wide variation in numbers.  It can be stretched ever so slightly to yield a slightly larger number than you need; it can be scrunched just a bit to yield a slightly smaller  number than you need.  Even with pressing, the top can be distorted a bit so that your numbers aren’t totally accurate.
2. If you know your blocks are measuring perfectly at 10″ or 12″ finished, and you know your sashing is measuring at 2″ finished, why can’t you just figure that 4 blocks x 10″ plus 3 sashing strips x 2″ = 46″ plus 1/2″ seam allowance (1/4 on each edge) . . your border needs to be 46-1/2″.

Who wants to measure down the left side, measure down the right side, measure down the middle, add them all up and take an average?  Not me!

The only potential for a problem that may arise is when your blocks are supposed to be 12″ finished and you have one that might be 12-1/4″ or one that may be 11-3/4″ but quilters . . make sure those blocks are right!  If your blocks aren’t right, your sashing isn’t going to be right and then one side of your border may need to be 46″ while one side may need to be 46-1/2″.  So, figure out how to get those blocks as right as possible.

If you don’t have Electric Quilt, you can simply make yourself a chart:

# of blocks x size of blocks = ________

# of sashing strips x size of sashing strips = ________

This is the size of your top with no borders.  Don’t forget to add 1/2″ for the two 1/4″ seam allowances.

Then for each additional border you add:

Start with the size of your top without borders.  For this example, let’s say the top is 46″ x 58″.

You will know that your side borders need to be 58-1/2″ before you attach them.  Let’s assume this border is 2″ finished.

Your width of your top is 46″ plus you’ve added 2″ on either side so 46 + 2″ on the left and 2″ on the right.  Now your top width is 50″.

Here’s a chart that I use when making borders.  If I’m sewing away from home, I always make my borders before leaving home, whether pieced or straight, and layer them with the outer border on bottom and continue stacking them til the first border to be added is on top.  Then I roll them up and tie my little bundle loosely with a selvage or strip of fabric.  When I’m ready to sew, I untie the bundle, unroll it and the first border gets added to the sides of the top, then the next border gets added to the top and bottom and so on.  I keep this little chart with the bundle so I have it for reference if needed.

Now, if you’re using Electric Quilt, this is very easy!  This is what you see when you have just the top drawn out.  Click on these to make them larger!

Notice:

1. In the top of the “Horizontal Layout” box, you see the size of the center of the quilt.
2. You see the size of the blocks, the size of the sashing and the number of blocks used.
3. Towards the bottom right, you see the size of the quilt at this point.

Let’s add that first 2-1/2″ finished border (cut 3″).

Notice:

1. In the “Borders” box, you see the size of this quilt after adding these borders.  Since I always add the side borders first, I use the measurements from the first box where no borders were added yet so my side borders are cut 3″ x 58-1/2″.
2. This particular borders box tells me that once the side borders have been added, the quilt measures 51″ x 63″, seam allowances not included.  So, I know my top and bottom borders need to be cut 3″ x 51-1/2″.  My top, including seam allowances now should measure 51-1/2″ x 63-1/2″.
3. I know that the next border (next round) I add will be the side borders.  So, whatever width they need to be,  the length will be 63-1/2″.

My next border will be a pieced border.  I’m using 3″ finished squares.  I needed to be sure that the top at this point measures numbers that are multiples of 3.  We will talk more about this later.  I know (because my calculator tells me) that 63 divided by 3 means I need 21 – 3″ blocks for the sides.  51 divided by 3 = 17 so I need 17 – 3″ blocks for the top and bottom.  And, I need four 3″ corner squares.  So, I need 21 and 21 (two sides), 17 and 17 (top and bottom) and 4 (corners) blocks for the border.  I need 80 – 3″ (3-1/2″) blocks for this pieced border.

Notice:

1. You see that we’re working on the 2nd of 2 borders.
2. You see that this top will be 57″ x 69″, not counting seam allowances, after the addition of these borders.
3. You see how many blocks are added to the sides and top/bottom.  You have to remember that you’ll also need the 4 corner blocks.

The final border is going to be 4″ (cut 4-1/2″).  I know that since the quilt was 57-1/2″ x 69-1/2″ after the previous border, my side borders will be cut 4-1/2″ x 69-1/2″.  From this screen shot, I can see that the top and bottom borders will be 65″ long finished so I will cut those 4-1/2″ x 65-1/2″, for a final measurement of this top top to be 65-1/2″ x 77-1/2″.

Some may find it easier to measure than to do the math.  I find it easier to do the math and keep the chart.  However you do it, please make sure your borders fit properly!  One method you might want to avoid is taking long strips and sewing . . without regard to measurements.  Ask me how I know this method doesn’t always work!

First, I’m adding the border posts to the side bar under “Free Patterns & Projects”.  Once I’ve covered all the topics I’m going to cover, I’ll post several charts that can be printed.

I’m not saying my blocks are perfect (they’re usually NOT!)  but I do know how to get real close to perfect.  Do you realize that being off just 1/16th of an inch can make a big difference?  Say you have a nine patch block that’s supposed to measure 9″ finished.  With two seams, each of those seams having two pieces of fabric, if either your seam allowance or your cutting is off by even 1/16th of an inch .. that’s 4/16th (or 1/4″) for your seam problems and another 1/4″ for any small cutting errors.  That’s 1/2″!  Add another 2/16″ for the two edges that might have a cutting problem but no seam!  Just a very, very small error can lead to over 1/4″ error in a simple 9 patch block.  Think of blocks that have 8 or 10 or 12 pieces across the width of the block!  Just a little bit of error compounds itself.

Here are some tips if you’re having problems with your blocks being the size you need for them to be.

1. Be sure you’re cutting accurately.  Check your rulers.  After time, I’ve found that some of the edges just wear away.  If you feel you’re not getting accurate cuts, take some scrap fabric and use several different rulers to cut squares — make them all the same measurement but use different rulers.  Stack those squares on top of each other.  Are they all exactly the same?  If not, either you have a ruler that’s off or you’re not being careful enough with your cutting.
2. Make sure you’re getting a perfect 1/4″ seam.  Cut two squares that are 2″.  Make sure they’re exactly perfect.  Sew them together, using a 1/4″ seam.  Press and measure.  This little practice piece should now measure 3-1/2″.  Does it?  If not, try different methods for getting that perfect 1/4″ seam allowance til you get it right.  Not all 1/4″ feet are created equally.  If you have a problem, it can be as simple as where your needle is hitting the fabric.  Maybe the position of your needle is off by just a teeny bit but it adds up.  Figure out what’s right for your machine!
3. Be careful when you press.  I find that some fabrics tend to stretch and distort more so than others.  Fabrics vary from one brand to another and even different fabrics from one company can vary in weight and “stretchability”.  Using something like Mary Ellen’s Best Press can help; steam or not steam is a personal preference.
4. Thread can make a difference.  Think that every seam has 2 layers of thread.  If you’re using a thicker thread like Star Cotton, which is “size 50″, which must be a “TEX weight”, it’s going to result in more bulk than using something finer like Aurifil or Superior Master Piece.  There’s a great article on thread weight at Superior’s site. Thread can make a big difference when you have star points coming together where there are lots of seams in one spot.

If you’re having problems getting your blocks close to perfect, make a few simple blocks and change whatever you can until you get it right.  You can get very close to perfect if that’s your goal.  While I don’t worry a whole lot about getting my blocks perfect, if I want my sashing to fit and my pieced borders to fit, then it is important to get as close to perfect as I can.

And, while we’re on the subject of perfect, quilting is supposed to be fun.   If quilting is stressful for you, something just isn’t right!  Just take the time to figure out what’s causing your stress and resolve it.  Wasn’t that easy?  No more stress!   One thing I always tell those in my classes — this isn’t brain surgery.  If you mess up in your quilting process, no matter how badly you mess up, no one is going to die!  No one is going to be permanently disabled or scarred for life.  It’s fabric!  Yes, it’s expensive and yes, you may be 90% finished with a top and you may ruin enough that you can’t finish the quilt as intended.  There’s always something you can do to salvage it.  Make it smaller, try to find more fabric, improvise and use a different fabric but do not stress about quilting!  We have enough in life to stress about . . let quilting be your de-stresser (is that a word).

By using a coping or fudge strip, we can make any pieced border fit our quilt tops.   In order to make a pieced border fit your own top, follow these easy steps.  Take each step, one at a time, in order.  Don’t worry about step 3 til you’ve finished steps 1 and 2.  Don’t make it hard — it’s so easy!

1. Width of quilt (NOT counting seam allowance):   (A) _____________
2. Size blocks you want to use in  your border: (B) ____________
3. Number of blocks that fit closest to your width – divide (A) by (B) = (C)___________ (round up to whole number)
4. Multiply (B) x (C) = (D)________________
5. Subtract (D) – (A) = (E)_________________
6. (E) divided by 2 = (F)______________
7. (F) plus seam allowances is the size of the coping strip you need to add to the left and right sides of your quilt to make the desired top/bottom border fit.

You will do the same thing for the length of the quilt and this will be for your top and bottom borders.

Example:  The example I’m using is made up of 10″ (finished) blocks and is set 4 blocks across and 5 blocks up and down, with a 2″ sashing.

1. My quilt as drawn, is 46″ x 58″.  A = 46″.
2. I want to use a 5″ block in my border.  B = 5″.
3. Divide (A) by (B).  46 divided by 5 = 9.2 so I need 10 blocks.  C = 10.
4. B X C = D    5″ blocks x 10 blocks = 50″.  D = 50″.
5. D – A = F.  50″ border width – 46″ quilt top width = 4″.  E = 4″.
6. E divided by 2 = F.  4 divided by 2 = 2.  F = 2″.
7. Add 1/2″ (1/4″ for the two sides) to the ” (F) measurement and this is the size of the coping strip, which in this case will be 2-1/2“.  This is the size of the left and right border to be added to the above example in order to make a top and bottom pieced border made of 5″ blocks fit perfectly.  46″ (width of top as shown above) + 2″ (left border) + 2″ (right border) = 50″.  10 blocks x 5″ = 50″.  Perfect!

Do the same thing with your length measurement (in this example it’s 58″) to get the size of the coping strip you would add to make those 5″ blocks fit.

You know I loved pieced borders.  How do you feel about borders?  Do you prefer not to add borders?  Maybe just a plain non-pieced border?  Do you love multiple borders, especially pieced borders?

If you’re one who doesn’t like multiple borders and/or pieced borders, well, I’ll try to come up with something else to interest you . . because I aim to please everyone!

For those who love pieced borders, I’m going to do a series on pieced borders.  The posts won’t we back to back or every day . . they’ll be just whenever I can get them done.   More than giving out free patterns, I want you to feel confident creating your own borders and making them fit your own quilts.

The Star BOM we did recently had 7  borders, including the pieced ribbon border.

The Big Star quilt offered as a free pattern has multiple borders, including a pieced border.   I just remembered that I need to write the instructions for the second border option.

I’ve seen gorgeous quilts with no borders at all so I’m not saying that every quilt needs multiple borders or a pieced border (or two) . .  I’m just saying that I love multiple borders and pieced borders and I’ll share a bit of what I’ve learned through the years about borders for any of you who may be interested.  I will add a section over on the right side bar under “Free Patterns and Projects” and try to keep this organized.