It has been so hard sewing without my big ironing board and I’m so glad to have it back.
I have a big board that fits over a regular ironing board but I love having the shelves underneath for storage. Want to make one of your own . . very inexpensively? Mine is about 10 years old and still works like a charm. Here’s how we made mine.
One day while we lived in Kentucky, I saw this pine book case . . cheap . . on sale for $10. It isn’t terribly sturdy so we added the bracing across the back and once the big board is on it and the shelves are loaded with books or projects, it’s plenty sturdy.
At the top of each those three boards on the sides, Vince drilled a hole into which a screw would go. Then he made a paper template and marked the top of a piece of plywood and drilled the holes in the plywood. The screws are the kind that are recessed into the plywood so there’s a smooth surface once they’re screwed all the way down.
The top is actually a piece of 1″ plywood that was discarded at a construction site where a friend’s husband was building a garage and I asked if I could have it and he said yes. That was free! I’m sure 3/4″ plywood would be sufficient for this project or maybe 1/2″. Depending on the size plywood you use on top, you may have to remove the top if you want to move it from room to room . . or house to house . . or in my case, state to state!
The top of my board is 32″ x 52″ but you can make it any size you like.
Screw the top onto the base, aligning the pre-drilled holes.
I was so proud of myself for saving the screws and being able to find them. I wasn’t so lucky with the staple gun! When I asked Vince about putting the ironing board together, he said “Do we need to buy more screws?” No, thank you, Mr. Laquidara! I know exactly where they are!
For the padding, I use 100% cotton batting. Polyester or a poly blend might melt, depending on the heat generated by your iron and how long you hold the iron in place. It’s better to be safe and use 100% cotton. Depending on the thickness desired for your pad, use multiple layers. I used 4 layers of Warm & Natural batting. If you use cotton batting for your quilting projects, save the scraps. I use big pieces and don’t mind piecing the padding. Spread each layer smoothly to be sure there are no wrinkles. Allow the batting to extend over the edges by an inch or so. Once the covering is stapled onto the board, having the batting curved around the edges will prevent it from slipping around.
For the top cover, use something that is less likely to scorch and something that is thick and sturdy enough so as not to stretch or distort with the heat and steam. I’ve used a cotton duck cloth in the past but the cotton duck at Wal-Mart here looked very rough and loosely woven so I went with a tan striped ticking fabric.
Spread the fabric over the batting, leaving several inches hanging over reach edge. Start with a long row and start in the middle. Staple, using a staple gun, and place the staples every 3 or 4″ but stop about 6″ from the ends. Go to the opposite side, the other long side, and do the same thing, again starting in the middle and stopping about 6″ from the ends. Pull the fabric as tight as you can while stapling.
For the ends, start in the center and put one staple, pulling the top fabric as tight as possible. Work on your corners next, getting them as neat as possible, using as many staples as needed. No one is going to look under there but remember that some day you may have to remove it and the more staples used, the more of a hassle it is to get it off.
Go back and fill in staples as needed. Then . . fill up those shelves with projects or books!